Bali-Lombok’s best and worst
IF Bali is Bugs Bunny then Lombok is definitely Daffy Duck. Honestly Lombok is better for what it lacks. But westerners generally want more, so Bali gets the tourists. Lombok gets less. That’s just the way it is. Actually the director of tourism for Lombok was quoted in the local press blaming Lombok’s low numbers on the Sasak people’s darker skin tone. No degreee for this guy.
Firstly let me lay on you two small words that will change your life in Bali Lombok; SUDAH PUNYAH (sooda poonyah) literally translated they mean already have (whatever it is you are selling, dude)
Indonesia is the third world… bare this in mind whenever you get frustrated with the relentless hawkers. Half the people on Bali don’t even have running water and even less in Lombok. And most of the people trying to sell you stuff dropped out of school in the 6th grade. So employ a little latitude when judging the poor sellers who are just trying to put some food on the table. Smile. Make a game out of it.
The government has never bothered to educate the front-lines of the tourist trade so understand the dynamics at work here. It’s carnival culture. And you are the main attraction.
Back to the language lesson. Most words are emphasized at the back of the word so in pronouncing it becomes sooDAH poonYAH. Hands should be held high in the air for maximum effect. And as repetition is utilized for greater emphasis a more effective modified and even more local delivery would go “ sudah sudah sudah “. Hands up and keep walking. I have enlightened a great many tamu (tourists) in this exact regard and the results are amazing. The locals figure you’re an expat or at least experienced enough to know those two very important words and generally let you go in hopes of netting a less fluent fish. Sudah.
Trying to nail a good destination armed with only a guidebook and a mediocre top map can be a fairly challenging under-taking. Every day in paradise is precious so the pressure to not waste time on unworthy destinations is great. Between highlights gleaned from other travelers and tips from guidebook writers who may or may not be of similar travel tastes, you must choose wisely those destinations that deliver maximum enjoyment.
The following is an overview of my recommendations to visit on the twin islands. These picks are based on physical geography, … the tourist attraction itself, the people surrounding said destination and cool factor in not being on most people’s itineraries. In short there are places worth visiting and places that don’t deserve your attendance because they are simply a waste of your precious travel time.
WORST LOMBOK
LEMBAR HARBOUR (port of entry for Bali ferry)
Shady operators abound. Keep your guard up. Dodgy police. Good place to get out of. Great Lombok cooking at the warungs at the east side of parking.
MATARAM
Good place to get a Big Mac and some fries, otherwise?
SENGGIGI
ANOTHER forgotten Indonesian tourist town. Pretty pointless in general although can dance and drink at the discotheque. Internet, bank machines and great satay on the beach in the afternoon. Best deal on rooms at the Bukit Hotel. Keep movin’.
BEST LOMBOK
GILI ISLANDS (Gili means island in Sasak language)
IF Lombok was Mexico the Gili’s would be Cancun… minus the motor vehicles. No motor-bikes or cars to spoil these fine sandy islands. Horse and buggy is the only locomotion making the Gili experience the highlight of many a holiday. Snorkeling and diving are the only things to do aside from sunbathing and bare foot strolling. You will find some of the funkiest beachside restaurants anywhere in Indonesia, fresh fish galore and accommodations for every budget. Lock up your goods! And be very careful when you deal with Bob Marley… Babylon is everywhere. Crystal meth has hit the place like a tsunami so watch out for those junkies. Best bet to get there is the Perama Boat. Perama office in Kuta, Bali or Ubud, or Senggigi, Lombok. Ahoy! Safest tour operator in Indo.
KUTA LOMBOK
ABSOLUTELY amazing. Wild windswept beach-front surfer town way off the beaten track. Located on the dramatic south coast. Alto reminiscent of the good old days you here about from Bali’s early years, Kuta Lombok is nothing like Kuta Bali. Water buffalo are omnipresent along the miles and miles of weaving coastal roads that snake east and west along some of the finest beaches anywhere boasting incomparable hill top views of the sparkling azure waters. Accommodation ranges from $5 US up to $100 at the 4 star Novotel whose breakfast buffet alone is worth spending a night. Otherwise hotels are fairly average, the Surfers Inn offering the best for the money. Thievery is rife. Horror stories abound of machete attacks on country roads and they are unfortunately true. Lock your things in the hotel’s safety box or it will be gone. Women should not travel alone. The food is so so. And the people while extremely traditional Muslim are very sweet except for the motorcycle mafia on the main road. You almost have to rent your bike from these guys so just be careful. Make sure you specify 24 hours or you’ll get hit with the 12 hour clause. Time goes slowly here.
EKAS BAY
EVEN further out, Ekas is a giant bay that offers some world-class surfing in an amazing seascape. There is nothing here but peace. A great, if a little pricey, hotel named Top of the World is perched high atop a cliff offers alarming views all the way to Java.
MOUNT RINJANI
A VERY serious mountain walk. It takes two days to reach the summit and is freezing up there. One of Indo’s best. Check you guidebook for details.
COW MARKET
Just outside of Praya close to Kuta this old time cow market is like stepping back in time… way back. Every Saturday.
AMPENAN
FOR serious local food lovers only. Lombok is famous for spicy food. One restaurant in particular is pretty difficult to find but well worth it. When you reach the round about with the giant anchor, park on the north-east side. Enter the tiny gangs and ask for the Warung Nasi Campur. If you find it you will know. Order one of everything.
Written by Michael Canada
As published on Lombok Times